Clubsport Pedals

Clubsport Pedals

Top of the line pedal set. Many people say, it is more important to have a good set of pedals instead of a good wheel and they are not wrong. It's a fact that the most crucial seconds are usually lost because of unprecise, early or late braking. The problem is, that it very hard  to brake just hard enough, that you stop quickly, but your wheels do not lock up. This set of pedals has everything to give you an advantage over other sim racers and outbrake them before every corner. Each pedal offers very realistic resistance. Brake pedal does not use a normal sensor, but a load cell sensor which means, that the brake force is not determined by the distance the pedal is pushed, but by the amount of force pressing on it (just like in a real car). It also has a vibration motor, so when wheels on you car lock-up you get warned by it's vibration. Pedals are made completely out of metal and are very adjustable. They can be connected with a USB cable to any computer or via PS/2 cable to any Fanatec Porsche Wheel.

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Comments

Mounting Clubsport pedals

I just got Playseat's Forza 4 edition and the holes for mounting line up properly (wish I can say the same for my CSR Elite wheel) but the screws are too narrow and slip right through the holes. So what type of screws/bolts/nuts do I need to get, and where?

Clubsport v2 pedals slow response - lag

I got my clubsport v2 pedals a few days ago to upgrade the pedals that came with my thrustmaster t500rs wheel.
First thing i notice is i am missing all my downshifts in iracing cos i am not blipping the throttle properly.
on closer checking the throttle pedal has noticably slower response than the thrustmaster pedals. so my quick blips are barely registering. or i have to blip before changing.

basically i want to know the reason for this. is this as good as they can get or is there something wrong with them. i don't think i could live with them if they are this slow, but i've not seen anyone else complaining. but then it wouldn't be the first time i've had trouble with laggy controllers cos i am sensitive to that kind of thing

No Vibration in rFctor game

I got my Porsche GT3 RS and Clubsport Pedals two Weeks ago.
3 days ago I started to install all of it and everything OK.
Now to my issues, first of all the Wheel when it calibrates itself it is not stopping in the midel ( what I mean is the yellow thing on top on the wheel which is supposed to be in the center) is not it is 2cm to the left then everithing functions by the test with the FANATEC WHEEL PROPERTY PAGE I mean the FF effects even on the Clubsport Pedal page the VIBRATION test is functioning but as soon as I start rfactor I feel frustrated I payed with shipping 350 € the whell when i am sim driving I need to hold it more to the left to be straight on the track and when I fully brake to block my wheels no VIBRATION at all. Can somebody advise me what to do or what I wrongly perhaps did.

Thanks in advance

have you tried Fanaleds? it

have you tried Fanaleds? it has that function because rfactor doesn't

USA Purchase

Appaently these pedals are not available in the USA, not on the website.
Also tried to email through site and it won't let me. Now that I see all the problems listed on here, I'll keep my money that I can't give them anyway. Piss Poor :(

Pedals not working

I'm a bit gutted, I have just put together my rig, all the best equipment available including fanatec's GT2 wheel and club sport pedals. Guess what? the pedals aren't working. I did use them the other day and intermittently usually after turning the wheel on they wouldn't work, then randomly they would. When they work they are amazing, but I'm not overly happy at having forked out over a grand for this set up only to fine what should be the best built and sturdiest part of it is already causing problems. Is the lead likely to be the cause please? I am reluctant to pull anything apart, but would happily buy a replacement lead whilst I wait on a replacement. Also, is the squeaky pedal a fault on all pedals? It's horrible and really bad if they are all leaving the factory like that. the area to be lubricated is right next to wires or sensors, I can see problems for someone less caring spraying the area and causing all sorts of problems. Still the best wheel combo on the 360, but come on Fanatec, we deserve better.

Clubsport brake pedal spikes on its own

I kept noticing I wasn't reaching the speeds I should reach with my Clubsport pedals, compared to what I was seeing with the wireless controller. I was thinking my accelerator wasn't hitting 100% throttle. I went into the telemetry screen, with the car sitting idle and no brake pressure applied, and was shocked to see the brake bargraph spiking to full brake pressure at irregular yet frequent intervals!?

I can see that the brake pedal is fully disengaged, yet this is still happening. It's a game killer as this winds up making me 3 to 5% slower than the field in most cases. Is what I'm seeing symptomatic of a failed load cell? I got my setup back in July, but haven't had much time to really play with it until lately. This is very disappointing because otherwise, I like the feel of the Clubsport pedals and the GT2 wheel.

clubsport pedals

purchased clubsoprt pedals end of jan 2011 delivered 2 moths late. recently pedals started playing up accelerator not operating correctley. then last week packed up totally. l
Looked up on this site, took the three alen bolts out only to find two out of the 4 wires had broken away from the soldered joints, to fine a job for me to handle, have emaile fanetec twice with no response.I find this appalling consisdering i spent 539 e. how do i fix this i know its under warranty, any sugestions

Try starting a topic

You could start a topic in the "Resolving problems" section at our forums and hopefully a Fanatec agent (Fanatec Benelux) will help you resolve this. ;)

CLUBSPORT PEDALS

2 dyas ago I purchase a fanatec package of GT3 RS wheel and clubsport package, set them all up o my PS3, and away i went, brilliant!!
Same thing the next morning poweered up and away I went fantastic!!

Turned the power off for lunch, came back and the throttle would not work at all. Unplugged and replugged all, and it again worked. However, turned wheel off and had a break, turned back on and no throttle again, I have diss and reconeected everything, claibrated the whee and still no gas pedal at all??

There is a common issue with

There is a common issue with the PS2 plug coming out from underneath the pedals. Make sure it's in tight. it's happened to us quite a few times.

Same problem with my

Same problem with my throttle.

Is it possible to change the

Is it possible to change the clutch with the brake ? e.g. driving f1 car is more confortable with the brake outside.

Clubsport Clutch Pedal NOT Working

I have the 911 Turbo S wheel with the Clubsport Pedals for my XBOX360. Yes, I did upgrade to the Clubsport pedals when my original $50 ones crapped out. Anyway, the clutch pedal does not work at all. It's as if it doesn't exist; there is no response at all. The gas and break pedals work correctly without any issues. I did notice that pressing the "A" button on the wheel will disengage the clutch. I've tried unplugging everything, rebooting the wheel, all of that but nothing has worked. It's been like that the last 4 or 5 times that I've tried to use them. It's been the same thing every time since they stopped working. Please Help!

My GT2 wheel and Clubsport

My GT2 wheel and Clubsport pedals arrived yesterday.

I'm having the exact same problem.

I also do not understand
1) if I need to update the CSP firmware
2) if I need to update the GT2 firmware
3) how to update either one

Nope

You don't need to upgrade either one, both already come with latest version ;)
The only scenario in which you'd have to it (only for clubspors) is if your brake pedal wasn't working correctly. There is a way to add deadzone to the load-cell with firmware upgrade.

Support

It is probably best to contact support.

Terrible

I am currently going through the return ordeal with a set of the standard pedals after barely only a month of use (allegedly due to a crappy potentiometer), and was offered the chance to "upgrade" to a set of CSP for $150.

First of all, knowingly selling someone a defective product, and upon a customer's discovery of the failure, offering to charge them more money for a "better" product is simply a pathetic way of doing business (borders on fraudulent, given their apparent knowledge of the equipment failures). Secondly, I am very glad I chose not to order a set of these pedals, given the recent stream of problems with them I've been reading about. Whether it is $50 for the standard plastic pedals or $200 for the aluminum Club Sports, the product should work much
longer than a few weeks/months provided the user isn't beating the crap out of them.

In regards to build quality/durability on "budget" items, I've had a Driving Force GT wheel for a little over a year now and have had zero issues with it. Heck, my Dad (who since retiring has become quite the PC gamer) has owned a Logitech MOMO racing wheel (the "cheaper" black plastic model) for well over 3 years. Despite showing the obvious signs of use (he's quite hard on his wheel and pedals), everything functions as it should. Both of these wheels cost a little less than I paid for my Carrera wheel about a month ago.

For the record, I'm not a fanboy of either manufacturer - if Oscar Mayer made a decent wheel, I'd buy it tomorrow - as long as I knew I didn't have to start going through the stupidity of replacing faulty components on a nearly-new $170 product.

Issue with Clubsport - gas pedal does not give zero (full gas)

Please advise me what is the correct forum / service center email I should address.

I bought this Fanatec Clubsport pedals with RS3 wheel about a year ago. There were already 6 months used.
I am located at Brazil.

The issue - raised up about 4 weeks ago - is the gas pedal when full pressed may (may not) give me zero.
It may show the range from 10-150.
When this pedal is off the standard value is 1023 - and allway is ok.

The effect on rfactor is I miss up to 10% gas on - killing races.

If I turn the USB plug off and on, the pedal gives me zero back.
But sometime, during rfactor race it goes back to range 10-150.

a) What is the root cause? Gas sensor? PCB? Or my computer?
(brakes is working perfect! Clutch - I dont use - works fine).

b) How to fix it?

I am running DXTweaker and setting min 170, avg 596 max 1023.
This way I am missing 10% of gas pedal travel. Temporary saves the day, but it is not good.

Thanks.
Celso.

Pls don't listen those

Pls don't listen those asshole don't try to scroll turn so hard other wise you will end up like me !I I cracket my sensor by overscroled!becuase one ass told that is need it to fix problem!just try to check pedal central screw and sensor but don't turn over because this pedal is china shit is easy to damage the screw!fanatec is realy expansive shiiiit!no trust after my experience!but cswheel is assme !but pedal deep shit easy to damage!

First step

The first thing I advise you to do is to check if the small PCB with a sensor is mounted firmly to the side of your gas pedal. I noticed a few cases online in which the tiny allen screws unscrew a bit, which allows the tiny PCB to rotate a bit, giving incorrect values. Try to secure it in the right place and see if it helps.

First step - check dimension

Thank you for your fast answer.
Do you know what is that bolt head size?
By hand it looks tide and straight. Pushing by hand the bolt & pcb does not change the measurement(using DXTweak2).

Throttle pedal squeak

Hi,
Does anyone know what I should use to lubricate the throttle pedal? It is squeaking a bit. Should I use WD40, or graphite spray, etc.?
Thanks!

Fanatec recommends using "Dry

Fanatec recommends using "Dry lube" (the same thing that's used for bicycle chains). I'm not sure if graphite spray falls into the same group, but I'm certain that WD40 is not an appropriate product to use.

Mount tha load cell

Fanatec sent to me a new Load cell. The problem is: How can i mount it alone? than you. Giuseppe

Is a photo enough? :)

Some time ago I made a photo for someone else that shows which parts are important when replacing the load cell. Will it be sufficient?  You need a 1.5mm allen key for those two screws. link to the photo

gt3 rs v2 and clubsport pedals

is there anyone who could help me please! i just set up my gt3 rs v2 with clubsport pedals and fanatec shifter for the first time. i intend to use these products on ps3 only. i tried it on gt5. the problem is that there is no response from the clutch or accelerator but the brake works fine. there also seems to be no response from the 6 speed shifter or the paddle shifters. the wheel turn seems to respond ok (although a fair amount of pressure needed to turn) and the buttons work fine. any help would be greatly appreciated. thx

Club sport pedal braking incoonsistent response

A process I have done several times now I have taken the sponge plunger out and cleaned and re-lubricated....(tried many none corrosive types of lube), put everything back together, start up system, (GT2 Wheel, 3-big screens, 3-xboxs, 3-Forza 3 setup), get about 10 laps of a 17 lap race absolutely flawless, and then all hell breaks loose! Brakes completely ignore pressure response...complete failure. Put the car back on the track, test the brakes, seem to respond, hit next turn nothing, then back to the track and then this scenario... car sits there full RPM doing a 'brake stand' with NO FOOT ON THE BRAKE.....what gives? This thing is taking the fun sim racing! Right now I'd rather use a cheap potentiometer set of pedals....

Clubsport Pedal Response

I can sympathise with your problem, I have been through the same process and have the same problem. The brake either stays on full or a small amount after moderate braking. I have contacted Fanatec customer support. From what I can see, it might be a problem with the load cell.

Support?

Why don't you contact support? They would probably send you a new loadcell or PCB to replace if you talk to them any show a video.

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